Common questions. Straight answers.

Pressure-treated wood: $25-$45 per square foot. Cedar or redwood: $35-$55 per square foot. Composite: $40-$70 per square foot. A 300-square-foot deck typically runs $9,000-$21,000. Height, railings, stairs, and footing depth drive the price. Those are typical county ranges, not a quote.

The licensed contractor matched to your project does. Deck Pro SD does not price or perform the work. The crew measures the site, writes the scope, and gives you its own number, and you contract and pay that contractor directly.

The crew measures the deck or the build area, checks the framing or the grade, and puts the scope in writing so you can see exactly what is and is not included. Estimate terms are set by the contractor, not by us.

Composite (Trex, TimberTech) costs more up front but never needs staining and resists San Diego sun and coastal moisture for 25-plus years. Pressure-treated wood costs less but needs sealing every 2-3 years. Cedar and redwood look the best and weather gracefully but cost more than pressure-treated. We match the material to your budget and exposure.

Yes, dark composite boards run hotter than wood in direct San Diego sun. We steer inland and west-facing decks toward lighter board colors and capped composite lines that are engineered to stay cooler underfoot. On coastal lots the marine layer keeps surface temps down.

A composite deck with properly flashed framing lasts 25-30 years. A pressure-treated wood deck lasts 15-20 years with regular sealing. Coastal salt air shortens fastener and connector life, so the crews we send spec stainless or coated hardware near the water. The framing, not the boards, usually decides a deck's lifespan.

Yes for any deck over 30 inches above grade, attached to the house, or covered by a roof or pergola with footings. Ground-level floating decks under 30 inches often do not. The crew we match you with pulls the permit in their own name and schedules the footing and final inspections when the scope calls for it.

San Diego County typically requires footings 12-18 inches deep on stable soil, deeper on expansive clay or fill. Hillside and elevated decks need engineered footings and sometimes caissons. The crews we send size footings to the load, the soil, and the inspector's requirements, never guesswork.

A poorly flashed or under-fastened ledger board where the deck attaches to the house is the number-one cause of deck collapse. Rotten posts, undersized footings, and corroded coastal fasteners follow. The ledger, flashing, and connections are the most important part of the build.

You call us and we take down the details of the project. We match you with a vetted local crew that handles footings, framing, decking, railings, stairs, and permits. The crew does the on-site estimate and the written scope, and you contract and pay that contractor directly.

We are a referral and project management service. The crew on your job is a vetted local team that builds decks full-time, not a general handyman. We do the scope, scheduling, and quality control; they do the work.

Ask for a certificate of insurance naming you as an additional insured for the project duration. You can also verify any California contractor license at cslb.ca.gov by name or license number. We confirm insurance coverage on every crew before they are matched to a project.

Then you do not need us. The guides on this site cover materials, railing code, footing depth, and permit rules, and they are useful whoever ends up building the deck. Verify any California contractor license at cslb.ca.gov before you sign.

Composite decks need very little maintenance. Sweep off debris regularly to prevent mold growth in shaded areas, and clean with a composite-approved cleaner once or twice a year. Do not use a pressure washer on full blast or harsh chemical cleaners. The boards themselves do not need sealing or staining, ever.

Every two to three years is the standard interval. In direct inland sun the finish breaks down faster; in coastal shade it holds longer. Look for water that soaks in rather than beading on the surface as the sign the wood is ready to reseal. A crew can reseal an existing deck as part of a repair visit if you want a professional finish.

Three things matter most: proper ledger flashing so water does not infiltrate behind the ledger into the house framing, post bases elevated off concrete so the post end grain is not sitting in standing water, and board gaps sized correctly so water drains rather than pools. Most San Diego deck rot traces back to one of these three details being skipped at the original build.

San Diego winters are mild and deck coverings are not typically necessary here the way they would be in wetter climates. What does matter is clearing debris from drain gaps and the ledger area after our brief winter rains, because organic material traps moisture against the framing. A quick inspection of the ledger flashing and post bases once a year is a better investment than a cover.